The ground where we install the pool must be FIRM AND RESISTANT (do not install on balconies/terraces, soft or filled ground) LEVEL AND SMOOTH (without holes, or grass, roots or stones that could pierce the liner). The installation should be carried out between two or three adults, on a day without wind and when the heat is not excessive (first thing in the morning or mid-afternoon). The length of the installation will depend on the size of the pool (see your pool label or instructions).
How To Find The Perfect Spot For An Above Ground Pool
Choose a sunny area near an electrical socket (to connect the pool pump), the water intake (to fill the pool) and the drain (to empty the pool), and where there are no underground connections (water, gas, electricity). There is no risk of flooding because of rain. Find an area protected from the wind and without trees (pollen and leaves make the pool dirty). DO NOT install the pool under power lines.
Once the Place of Location has been chosen, you have two options:
– Install on a concrete or cement platform (perfectly smooth). – Directly on the ground, after preparation.
Mark Out The Area
You will mark the area in which the pool is to be installed. If the pool is round, you should mark out the area 1 meter more than the diameter of your pool. If the pool is oval, mark the area out 1 meter longer and 2 meters wider than the pool. If the pool is square, mark the ground 1 meter bigger all round. Tools you would need Screwdriver, rope, funnel, flour.
Level the ground
Never add soil where the ground is sloped downwards, always remove soil where the ground is uphill. Clean roots, stones, etc. Compact the earth so that the ground is solid and supports the weight of the pool once it is filled with water. The ground must be level. So use a plumbers level on top of a long piece of wood to check the level of the ground. Tools you would need Hoe, shovel, level.
Once the ground is clean and leveled, you will spread a thin layer of sifted sand (maximum 1 cm thick), water it and compact it. Check again to make sure the ground is level. Tools you would need Water, garden roller, level, shovel, sifted sand.
Tools needed to assemble your pool
For the assembly of your pool, you will need, apart from those already mentioned. The following tools are usually necessary: Gloves, Phillips screwdriver, tape measure, utility knife, wrench set.
Apart from someone who relieves themselves in the water, nothing can spoil a good time of swimming or sunbathing faster than a bee sting .
Bees buzz around your pool for good reason. It is a huge reservoir of water and, like us, they need water to live.
And if there are bees, there is a good chance that there are also a few wasps .
It may be tempting to want to kill them, but it really isn’t the right thing to do. Whether you already know it or not, we remind you that they are beneficial and essential for the environment – even in your garden.
To quickly summarize, you just need to show them a better place than your pool to drink or cool off.
Given the importance of bees to the environment, destroying them should always be the last resort, after trying everything else at least twice. It is very serious.
Bees are dying in record numbers all over the world. Killing an extra handful, or worse, an entire nest will primarily destroy your local agriculture and your own food security.
It is more relevant to help them and to protect them from your pool, as the pool itself is a danger to bees. By landing there to drink, they usually become unable to escape and eventually drown.
It is therefore for your safety and theirs that they should be kept away from the swimming pool.
Provide an Alternative Water Source
Bees fly around your pool looking for a place to drink. By providing them with another source of water, they will find your pool less attractive.
A birdbath or shallow container placed a good distance from your pool, will do the trick. If you decide to use a regular birdbath, or something a little deeper, place a few stones or a small piece of wood that the bees can climb on if they fall into the water. It also gives them a place to rest and drink.
If you install this water source before you open your pool for the season, the bees will already have an established water source and will be less likely to buzz in the pool.
Keep this water source filled all summer. It will likely evaporate faster than bees can drink it, especially if you live in a hot climate.
Floral, Vegetable and Landscaping
Arranging or reorganizing the natural environment of your swimming pool is, of course, an element to consider in order to keep bees away.
Close to the pool, you can for example plant, in pots or in the ground, repellent plants such as aurones, woodruff, alliates, or geraniums.
Conversely, certain types of flowers, spices and fruit trees attract pollinators en masse during spring blooms. They use their natural charm to attract bees to soak up their pollens and transport them.
They must be planted or moved away from the pool, not far from your birdbath for example. Ditto if you have a vegetable garden. This is the case of cherry, lavender, dandelion, black locust, clover, lime, fennel, oregano, aster, mint, etc.
Other Factors to Consider
Keep your food and drinks covered. Things that smell good and sticky, like soda, can attract them. If possible, cover your food and drinks.
Avoid wearing bright colors. Colorful swimsuits, towels, and inflatable toys also pique the curiosity of bees.
Get the water in your pool moving. For a bee, turbulent and moving water is synonymous with danger. They avoid landing nearby. You can use a pool cleaner or direct your pool jets to move and ripple the surface of the water.
Try repellents. These can be essential oils, sprays/creams to apply to the skin or dedicated swimming pool products.
Call a Local Beekeeper
If you rarely see a bee flying around the pool, that’s not a big deal. But if your pool attracts significant numbers, there may be a nest on or near your property.
In this case, the best solution is to find a beekeeper near you to remove the nest for you, without damaging it or killing the bees. He can then relocate the bees to more comfortable accommodation. Everybody wins!
If you can’t find a beekeeper, an exterminator may also be able to move the nest. Just make sure you tell him that’s what you want to do, instead of spraying insecticide on the area where your kids and pets are playing.
How To Keep Wasps Away From Your Swimming Pool
Unfortunately, wasps are a bit more difficult to eliminate than bees and are also scarier to humans.
Wasps are usually associated with terms like “dangerous”, “annoying”, sting “. In comparison, the cute, fluffy little bees that collect pollen and produce honey have a much more positive image.
This scientific study has shown that it is mainly out of ignorance that people are afraid of wasps. They also have a beneficial ecological role. Carnivorous, they regulate the populations of insects, which has the effect of reducing vectors of diseases for humans and harmful to crops.
So, before you start crushing or spraying them, get to understand better how wasps work and think of a few alternatives to keep them away from your pool.
Put Up Wasp Nests
Wasps are very territorial and do not like living near other wasps . You can make sure you use this to your advantage to keep them away from your pool.
You can buy imitation wasp nests and hang them in different places in your yard, preferably away from your house and the pool.
Place them at the start of the season, before they start building their own nest. That way, you’ll keep them where you want them to be.
Try Raw Meat
Apparently, wasps like raw meat . You might have noticed if you’ve ever barbecued. They try to land on the meat that you are going to put on the grill. Again, you can use this to your advantage.
On days when you anticipate a heavy use of your pool, hang some red or white meat, raw, uncooked, in a secluded spot in your garden. This can keep wasps away from your pool that will prefer to head for this treat.
Be careful to put a piece big enough that they don’t eat it too quickly, but small enough that it doesn’t attract other problems, such as flies and maggots.
Call a Professional
If a large group of wasps have settled in, a few fake nests and some raw meat may not be enough. Or maybe someone in your home is allergic to wasp (or bee) stings.
In this case, do not take any risks and contact a company specializing in pest control. And be sure to tell him that you want the wasps to be moved, not sprayed with insecticide.
The last thing you need is for toxic chemicals to be blown into your pool water or land on the grass and surfaces where you, your children, and your pets are walking around in bare feet.
The sooner you find a way to keep the bees away from the pool or a way to encourage the wasps to move elsewhere, the sooner you can enjoy your pool without worry.
Remember that every being has a place in the ecosystem, even wasps. And the more you are able to coexist peacefully with all the creatures in your garden, the happier you will be.
How can I prevent insects from entering my pool?
Covering your pool is the only way to prevent insects from landing (and drowning) in your pool. At night in particular. Like us, insects need water to survive. You can also provide them with an alternative water source far from your pool or keep your pool water moving to dissuade them from going (moving water = danger).
How do I remove insects from my pool?
A landing net allows you to skim the surface and to collect and remove insects from your pool. In natural swimming pools, you can implant koi or melanotic ides to eliminate floating insects.
The shock treatment of a swimming pool is for corrective purposes. If your water has lost its transparency and its crystal clean appearance, if it has changed color, tending towards green and if you are concerned that it will get worse in the next 24 hours, shock treatment is the best choice.
This is the last winning option in the face of water that has turned, before considering emptying, even partial, of thepool. Following a non typical event, a shock treatment may be necessary to restore clear and crystalline water.
Given the chemical load implemented by the shock treatment, its recommend shocking the pool at least once every 2 weeks in the middle of summer.
Basically, it depends above all on the care taken in maintaining your pool and the water it contains. Regardless, if the water begins to cloudy or turn green, don’t wait and act as quickly as possible.
For health reasons, it is not recommended to swim during shock treatment. With the little ones, you must strictly prohibit swimming, explaining why. Depending on how severe the shock treatment is, no swimming for 48 hours is recommended.
Why shock treatment?
If the maintenance and filtration of the pool are properly carried out, then shocking a pool will not need to be done.
The water can then cloud quickly and be overrun with algae in less than 48 hours, taking on a bizarre coloring that is unappealing to swimming and potentially dangerous for your pool.
Faced with this type of inconvenience, the shock treatment is a radical solution that allows you to attain healthy and clean water . Its chemical load eradicates all microorganisms, bacteria, viruses, algae, mosses or fungi that have taken possession of the premises.
When do you need to do shock treatment?
Although this is an exceptional procedure, as the water ages (chemists speak of the age of water), shock treatment will become less rare. Its goal is to use chemicals to find conditions suitable for swimming.
These are the times when a swimming pool will need shock treatment.
– After a complete emptying of the pool.
– After wintering, when the swimming pool is put back into service.
– After a meteorological event: thunderstorm, storm, strong gales, extreme heat.
– Following a proliferation or invasion of algae: whatever the reason.
– Following a strong use of the pool: a large number of bathers.
– Following a bacterial or viral infection of a swimmer to eliminate any risk of contamination.
– Before winterizing the pool, at the end of the season. – When put back into service in the spring.
– After the first filling
What products should be used to shock your swimming pool.
With a little experience, you will know the right products for you.
If this is the first time or a pool you don’t know, remember that there are no dumb or unnecessary questions. It is better to inquire and ask when you are not sure of what you are doing, whether it is from a specialized store, a forum, a loved one. You’ll save time, money, and less stress about the condition of your pool water.
Chlorine and Bromine shock are the most widely used.
If you usually disinfect your pool with chlorine, use shock chlorine . It is rapidly dissolving chlorine, not stabilized in powder, pellets or granules, based on Calcium Hypochlorite or Sodium Hypochlorite (bleach).
If you usually disinfect your pool with bromine, choose shock bromine . You can also use shock chlorine (Calcium hypochlorite, Sodium hypochlorite) but you probably won’t.
Active oxygen is the most common alternative.
Pay close attention to incompatibilities between products.
If you are using another form of pool sanitizer, then active oxygen products will often be recommended. Knowing that active oxygen is also very effective in shocking a swimming pool usually treated with chlorine or bromine.
If treating with PHMB, use active oxygen, as it is incompatible with chlorine or bromine.
If treating with copper/silver ionizer or vegetable ceramic, prefer shock chlorine (calcium or sodium hypochlorite) or active oxygen. Do not use shock bromine.
If treating with Ozonator, prefer shock bromine or shock chlorine (calcium or sodium hypochlorite)
If treating with UltraViolets, prefer shock bromine, shock chlorine, or calcium hypochlorite. Do not use active oxygen if and only if the pool is larger than 90m3, the pool is sheltered and the water temperature is over 30 ° C.
How to Start Shock Treatment?
1 – Prepare the pool water.
– Stop all swimming: explain to the little ones if necessary and close access to the pool if possible. – Uncover the pool: it is probably already uncovered, otherwise, remove the cover or fold up the roller shutter. Shock treatment requires a visual check several times a day. If the inside of the cover or shutter seems dirty, spray them with water. – Remove the accessories and objects that are in the water: toys, pipes. Clean and rinse them. – Remove any large debris using a net and empty the baskets of the skimmers and the pump pre-filter.
– (not compulsory) Clean the swimming pool: walls, bottom, water line. If the water is really dirty and you cannot see what you are doing, it is wiser to wait until the treatment has started to act: risk of degrading the coating. Knowing that once the shock treatment is finished, it will be necessary to clean the walls, bottom, waterline, and the submerged parts (skimmers, nozzles, bung, plugs, and various equipment) again. It’s up to you to assess the situation …
– Check the condition of the filter (pressure in particular) and clean it if it seems too dirty to you: washing/rinsing if a sand filter or replacing the cartridge/bag. – Analysis and adjustment of the water balance according to the shock treatment used, in particular the pH. Also, check the total alkalinity (TAC) and the lime content (TH). Make sure the settings are correct and don’t do anything else until they are: the most important is the pH.
2 – Run the pump continuously until the water has a gray/blue appearance.
– Put the shock treatment products in place. Read the instructions before proceeding. Check that there is no incompatibility. – Put the filtration in continuous operation. – Wait for the treatment to take effect by cleaning/replacing the filter if necessary (stop filtration during these phases).
Depending on the state of the water, it can last from 48 hours to a few days. Some water catching can take 2 to 3 weeks.
During this time, you must continue to check the water (pH, disinfectant level) and rinse the filter if it begins to build up pressure (rely on the pressure gauge).
3 – Flocculation and cleaning of the pool to finish.
If the water has become clear again but remains cloudy, use a flocculant or clarifier to conglomerate the residue and remove it more easily through filtration. It may be the remains of dead algae in suspension. Use only if the water has not become clear and crystalline again.
Once finished, – clean the swimming pool: walls, bottom, water line, submerged parts, using brushes, vacuum cleaner, and/or robot cleaner to find clear water. – recheck and re-clean the filter if necessary before returning to normal filtration mode.
If you need to, don’t forget that there are companies specializing in pool maintenance. They can intervene occasionally or take charge of the complete maintenance of your swimming pool.
Have you noticed yellow stains on your liner, and more exactly a yellow coloration of your water line? How to avoid these spots? How to get rid of it?
The water line of a swimming pool is a very sensitive area (especially when it is equipped with a liner). This is where most of the pollution is concentrated, resulting in a brown or yellow coloration of the water line.
The fouling of the water line of the swimming pool is slow and regular. It is caused by fatty substances floating on the surface of the swimming pool, including, in particular: the fallout from the combustion of hydrocarbons (chimneys, proximity to a road or an airport, etc.), body oils and pollution linked to the plant environment.
It is frequently observed that the water line is more easily marked on the sides of the swimming pool, exposed to the sun . In fact, the pollution of the membrane is activated or aggravated by solar radiation.
A yellowish coloration on the water line of your swimming pool may appear.
This coloring results from an undesirable chemical reaction between certain anti-UV agents incorporated in sun products (such as Benzotriazine and Benzotriazole) and the presence of copper in the swimming pool water.
This coloring is limited to the water line (emerged part of the liner) because it is on the surface of the pool that the sun creams and oils, which are insoluble in water, float.
Products That WillClean The Yellow Stains
Regular maintenance of the liner water line
The coloring of the water line is easily removed by a weekly maintenance , using a liquid, non-abrasive cleaning product (varnished membranes), provided for this purpose.
You can also use a magic eraser to scrub your water line.
Beware of limestone on the walls of your pool
The lime deposits on the water line of your swimming pool facilitate the adhesion of fatty substances and complicates its cleaning.
Lime is easily removed by using a suitable acidic cleaning product
It is also possible to use a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water (1/1). Very stubborn pollution is generally removed with ethyl acetate or THF, but these modify the appearance of the surface (shine) and also remove the varnish and the pattern, in the case of a coating printed or varnished. The use of ethyl acetate, THF or, more generally, PVC solvent, is therefore strictly prohibited with varnished and / or printed membranes.
Watch out for copper and sunscreen in your pool
Avoid an excess of sunscreen and especially sun oil (the worst!) And take a shower before swimming.
Avoid adding copper to your pool (copper sulfate).
How To Eliminate The YellowStainedWater Line For Good
In order to remove the yellow stains on the liner or the PVC membrane, the following curative treatment must be carried out:
1- Increase the water level of the pool to cover the stained area
Day 1 :
2- Perform shock chlorination at 10 ppm of free chlorine
3- Adjust the pH of your water to 7
4- Pour into a skimmer 1 cap (40 ml) of metal inhibitor (FERAFLOC) for every 50 m³ of water
5- Pour a new dose of 40 ml of FERAFLOC for every 50 m³ of water
6- Backwash the filter
NB : Let the filtration run continuously, throughout the treatment and repeat the above operations for 5 weeks.
There are several thousand species of algae. Fortunately, it is easy to eliminate them … with the right treatment. But to find it, you first need to be able to identify the type of algae that proliferates in your pool. Here is a look back at the different types of algae in a swimming pool, and the tips for identifying them.
How to Identify the Different Types of Algae
All algae in swimming pools are part of the same family: diatom algae. It is a mono-cellular algae that multiplies by direct division. In other words, it multiplies rapidly. Diatomaceous algae appreciate humidity, heat, and light. That is to say, all the elements which one finds in a swimming pool. A significant proliferation of these algae causes coloring of the water, the walls, and the bottom of the swimming pool.
Although they all come from the large family of diatoms, there are thousands of species of algae. To distinguish what type of algae you are dealing with, you need to check two things:
Its color (green, black, yellow, etc.)
Its appearance (sticky, viscous, or easily detached from the walls of the pool
This is how we distinguish them, and recognize them.
Types of Swimming Pool Algae
Color, appearance… here are the different types of algae that you can (unfortunately) find in your swimming pool.
Green algae: the pool water is uniformly green, and may or may not have spots on the sides and bottom of the pool, or on the pool accessories. Appearance: they are sticky, vicious in appearance. The bottom and sides of the pool are then slippery. Green algae can also be found suspended in pond water.
Black algae: the pool water is not necessarily colored, but the algae form black spots on the walls and on the bottom of the pool.
Appearance: Black algae have a slimy appearance. They generally form in a tree structure. They can also appear on the joints of the swimming pool tiles.
Mustard yellow algae: these algae mainly develop in the shaded areas of the swimming pool. They appear as yellowish colonies on the walls and on the bottom of the pool.
Appearance: unlike the previous ones, these are easily detached from the walls.
White algae: they also develop in the shadow areas of the swimming pool. They appear in the form of masses of whitish algae.
Appearance: they have a slightly foamy or even cottony appearance, and easily come off the walls.
Red / pink algae: these are red or bright pink colonies of algae that develop on the plastic parts of the pool. You will find them in priority on the skimmer, the liner, etc.