Have you noticed yellow stains on your liner, and more exactly a yellow coloration of your water line? How to avoid these spots? How to get rid of it?
The water line of a swimming pool is a very sensitive area (especially when it is equipped with a liner). This is where most of the pollution is concentrated, resulting in a brown or yellow coloration of the water line.
The fouling of the water line of the swimming pool is slow and regular. It is caused by fatty substances floating on the surface of the swimming pool, including, in particular: the fallout from the combustion of hydrocarbons (chimneys, proximity to a road or an airport, etc.), body oils and pollution linked to the plant environment.
It is frequently observed that the water line is more easily marked on the sides of the swimming pool, exposed to the sun . In fact, the pollution of the membrane is activated or aggravated by solar radiation.
A yellowish coloration on the water line of your swimming pool may appear.
This coloring results from an undesirable chemical reaction between certain anti-UV agents incorporated in sun products (such as Benzotriazine and Benzotriazole) and the presence of copper in the swimming pool water.
This coloring is limited to the water line (emerged part of the liner) because it is on the surface of the pool that the sun creams and oils, which are insoluble in water, float.
Products That WillClean The Yellow Stains
Regular maintenance of the liner water line
The coloring of the water line is easily removed by a weekly maintenance , using a liquid, non-abrasive cleaning product (varnished membranes), provided for this purpose.
You can also use a magic eraser to scrub your water line.
Beware of limestone on the walls of your pool
The lime deposits on the water line of your swimming pool facilitate the adhesion of fatty substances and complicates its cleaning.
Lime is easily removed by using a suitable acidic cleaning product
It is also possible to use a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water (1/1). Very stubborn pollution is generally removed with ethyl acetate or THF, but these modify the appearance of the surface (shine) and also remove the varnish and the pattern, in the case of a coating printed or varnished. The use of ethyl acetate, THF or, more generally, PVC solvent, is therefore strictly prohibited with varnished and / or printed membranes.
Watch out for copper and sunscreen in your pool
Avoid an excess of sunscreen and especially sun oil (the worst!) And take a shower before swimming.
Avoid adding copper to your pool (copper sulfate).
How To Eliminate The YellowStainedWater Line For Good
In order to remove the yellow stains on the liner or the PVC membrane, the following curative treatment must be carried out:
1- Increase the water level of the pool to cover the stained area
Day 1 :
2- Perform shock chlorination at 10 ppm of free chlorine
3- Adjust the pH of your water to 7
4- Pour into a skimmer 1 cap (40 ml) of metal inhibitor (FERAFLOC) for every 50 m³ of water
5- Pour a new dose of 40 ml of FERAFLOC for every 50 m³ of water
6- Backwash the filter
NB : Let the filtration run continuously, throughout the treatment and repeat the above operations for 5 weeks.
Normally, pool owners are mainly concerned with cleaning and maintaining their pool, but what about the automatic pool cover? Just as your pool requires care, so does your pool cover. I am going to list the most important tips to successfully care for and clean your automatic pool cover.
What To Check On Your Automatic Pool Cover And Related Moving Parts
With a minimum amount of effort, you can extend the life of your pool cover, the motor, and other components. The housing should be cleaned out at least once per year. Make sure leaves and other debris don’t prevent water from draining out of the housing.
Periodically inspect the track to be sure all screws are secure if they become loose simply tighten with a screwdriver. Spray water in the track channel a couple of times a year to remove the potential buildup of leaves or other debris.
Throughout the year inspect the vinyl fabric for signs of wear brought on by pool chemicals, age, extreme temperature, and the sun. Should the vinyl become brittle its ability to provide protection may be compromised and should be replaced.
it’s important to inspect the vinyl for holes or tears which can allow water to seep up from the pool and present a safety hazard. Patch kits are available from your dealer.
if the stitching begins to fray the strength of the cover may be compromised and this should be repaired or replaced by your dealer.
To prevent premature aging of the vinyl the cover should remain open for at least two hours after you add chemicals to your pool. This will allow the chemicals and chemical gases to disperse.
How To Clean Your Automatic Pool Cover
For owners who wish to clean their cover, the operation is quite simple. First, make sure the pool water level is at the center of the skimmer opening. Start by placing the bilge pump on the cover. Next, spray water into the tail end of the vinyl and add a mild diluted cleaner.
Then gently clean a five-foot section of the vinyl with your pool brush. Open the cover five feet and repeat the process allowing the bilge pump to remove the standing dirty water. it’s important to follow these simple steps at the beginning of the pool season or whenever you need to clean the cover.
Automatic pool covers must be cleaned every 3-6 months. Spray all the reel components with a Teflon based lubricant once every season to make sure components are running smoothly. This will prevent wear on the moving parts.
At this point, you should be ready for the rest of your pool opening procedures. At the end of the pool season, a few precautions are important to protect your cover and your pool.
First, close the cover completely and put the bilge pump on the cover. Next, make sure that at least 70% of the vinyl is resting on the water. Anything less than 70% may damage the vinyl. if during the offseason support of the vinyl becomes less than 70% add additional water to the pool.
On top track systems, water bags can be added for additional protection.
Safety Aspects To Consider When Using Your Automatic Pool Cover
Your backyard pool is a great place to play, exercise, entertain, and relax but it’s also a place where safety must come first. Responsible pool owners know that real dangers exist.
From horseplay or other unsafe behavior, but a very real danger is present around any body of water.
The cover should only be operated by an adult or owner.
Keep children away from the cover. Children or objects, cannot be under the cover.
Do not walk on the cover except for emergency purposes.
Only keep the bilge pump on the cover. Set the bilge pump up for proper use whenever the cover is closed.
Always keep the water pumped off the cover to avoid a drowning risk. Even a small amount of water is a hazard, especially if someone walks or falls onto the cover vinyl. The water will collect around the person and may present a drowning risk.
When swimming, keep the bilge pump away from the pool area and always keep all electrical cords away as well.
You should inspect the cover frequently for signs of deterioration, rips, or tears.
Do not close the cover until all swimmer’s toys, towels, ladders, and other objects are out of the pool.
Never leave the pool cover partially opened.
Always make sure you can see the entire pool and pool cover while you’re activating the controllers to open or close the pool cover.
Always remove the key from the key switch when the pool is not in use.
Questions and Answers Regarding Automatic Pool Cover Problems
Can I walk on the cover? While you can walk on the cover we recommend doing so only in an emergency.
Is the cover too big? Many new cover owners question the extra vinyl fabric that’s evident in the cover. This is actually key to the effect of the operation of the cover. At first new covers appear to be wrinkled or oversized but this is normal and the wrinkles may smooth out over time.
If I drain my pool or the water level gets low should I close the cover? Never cover your pool if drained or anytime the water level is any more than 6 inches below the skimmer. Doing so could cause damage to the system. Fill the pool to a level where the water supports the cover.
The cover is opening or closing crooked what should I do? While it’s normal for a cover to open or close up to 2 inches off its normal position appearing slightly crooked as it moves. More severe misalignment should be addressed by a trained technician.
Should I leave the bilge pump on the cover at all times? The bilge pump should be left on the cover whenever the cover is closed. The only exception is during severe winter conditions when it’s too cold to melt the ice and snow on the cover. Remove the pump off and place it in a warm area. Then place the pump back on when the ice begins melting.
I hear a popping noise when I open and close the cover is this normal? Sometimes the ropes make a popping noise when rolling on to the Rope reels this is normal and not an indication of any trouble.
The pool cover does not open or close when I activate the controller what should I check? Check if the motor is not turning or the cover is not moving you may need to reset your GFCI outlet. Turn the breaker off then turn it back on. If the cover is still not operating call your installation company.
Water appears on my cover when it has not rained in days? Your cover may have a hole over the water and needs to be patched.
The cover stops halfway open or closed what should I do? If your cover stops Midway the tracks might have dirt or debris inside and you should clean them out with a firm stream of water from your hose. Another possibility is that the ropes have become tangled around the rope reel in the housing. Lift the lid to check the reels and see if they appear tangled. If they are you must first turn off the power to the system and then you can carefully attempt to untangle them yourself. Another situation that may cause a cover to stop Midway is that there may be too much water remaining on the cover. Pump the water off with the bilge pump and then attempt to open the cover.
The key switch indicator light is blinking red? A blinking red light indicates that the cover has stopped under stress. There might be water on top of the cover. There could be an object blocking the cover or the cover could be running crooked and needs adjustment.
The cover is completely open and will not close? It may be that the cover has opened too far and come out of the track. You can also check the green indicator light on your controller. If the light is not on you do not have power to the system and you should check your electrical system.
The bilge pump is not pumping off the water? It may be that the pump’s automatic shutoff is malfunctioning or there’s another problem. Check your bilge pump owner’s manual for troubleshooting tips. The pump may need to be repaired or replaced because a properly functioning pump is critical to the safety and operation of every pool cover.
I recommend you purchase a backup pump to always have on hand in the event of problems with your primary pump.
I hope that this information is helpful to you for having a trouble-free automatic pool cover.
It is the dread of any pool owner: seeing spots appear on the coating of a pool. Often difficult to remove they quickly become a nightmare. All stains are not cleaned in the same way, for the simple reason that they do not all have the same origin. The treatment will also depend on the coating of your pool: liner, coating, or fiberglass. Here is our guide for how to remove stains from a pool.
How To Remove Stains From a Pool Liner
Brown spots. Removing brown spots on the liner of your pool can be a relatively easy operation if they result from the presence of organic waste or are a sign of deposits of dead algae. On the other hand, it promises to be more delicate if it is a question of micro-mushrooms which, in reality, have developed behind the liner, on the concrete part of your swimming pool, and appeared by the effect of porosity. It is generally the consequence of humidity that settled between the coating and the concrete.
How do you know if it’s algae or fungi?
If the spots reappear quickly after rubbing them, it is fungi. In this case, do the following: Lower the pH to 6.8 and stop the filtration. Thus, the pores of the liner will dilate and the treatment will be more effective. Then, if you have only a few isolated sections, bring gloves, a chlorine tablet, and diving goggles and then rub in small circular movements, without pressing too hard, on the stain.
On the other hand, if the spots are almost everywhere in the pool, pour with a watering can sodium hypochlorite or, failing this, bleach as close as possible to the spots. Finally, raise the pH to 7 or 7.2 and then filter the pool water continuously for 72 h before washing the filter.
If the waterline has turned yellow. This is due to the presence of floating fatty substances on the surface of the water. Even with regular maintenance of your pool, sunscreens, are formidable. To prevent the appearance of this famous yellow line, think of rubbing the edge with a suitable product, once a week.
To prevent the appearance of limescale, which promotes the adhesion of fatty substances, by also using an acid cleaning product. If, on the other hand, the water line is crusted, do as follows: Fill the pool so that the water largely covers the yellow line.
Do shock chlorination. Set the pH to 7. Pour a metal inhibitor into the skimmer at the doses indicated (generally 40 ml for 50 m3 of water). On the 4th day, pour a new dose of product. On the 7th day, backwash the filter. Leave the filtration continuously on for the duration of the treatment.
Rust stains. They reflect the presence of metals in water (iron, copper, manganese). To remedy this, apply the specific products using a sponge after putting on gloves. You can also try white vinegar. To do this, attach a sponge to the end of a hollow tube and pour the liquid into it. Then rub on the stains.
Pink or Red spots. Viscous in appearance, they first appear on plastic surfaces (water toys, ladders, etc.). To make them disappear, lower the pH to 7 and scrub the stains with a sponge. Then do a shock treatment or use an algaecide.
For optimal efficiency, also leave contaminated objects in the water during the operation. The filtration system must also work continuously. Then 24 hours later, raise the pH to 7.2 and 7.6 and leave the filtration system on for another 72 hours. Wash the filter every day before the treatment. You can remove stains on a liner by using a specific cleaner sold in specialized stores.
You will apply it using a sponge or a glove, and scrub in circular movements. You can also use silver stone, which is a natural clay-based solution, or white vinegar.
How To Remove Stains From A Fiberglass Pool
Red, Black, Brown, Blue/Green spots. This may be due to the decomposition of organic matter (leaves, insects, etc.) or an excessive supply of metal ions.
What to do? The treatment of these stains on your fiberglass pool will take place over a week. On the first day, Acidify the pool by reducing the pH to 6, then carry out shock chlorination. Then add a ferrous ion product using the correct dosage. On the 4th day, add another dose of the same product. On the 7th day, backwash the filter. In the end, check that the pH has risen between 7.2 and 7.6 and then stabilize it. For prevention, be sure to keep the pH between 7.2 and 7.6.
Brown or Green spots. Have algae formed on the bottom and walls of your pool? To be sure, just see if they disappear on contact with a chlorine tablet. If this is the case, treatment is necessary. Practice shock chlorination then adjust the pH of the water to between 7.2 and 7.6 as well as the hardness. Run the filtration system all the time.
Then, do a flocculation treatment to increase the fineness of filtration and eliminate the algae in suspension. Allow a day to pass then brush the walls, wait for the residue to form at the bottom of the pool, and vacuum them directly to waste. Return the filtration system to normal operation. To prevent algae from returning, it is advisable to use a pool cover which will thus block the photosynthesis process.
Brown or Black spots. They are undoubtedly fungi, which have formed due to insufficient filtration, or random cleaning of the pool. To remedy this, you will need to lower the pH to 6 in order to acidify the water, before initiating shock chlorination. Note that to avoid the appearance of fungi, the pH should be kept around 6.8 and the chlorine level should be at least 1.5 mg / l.
White or Grayish spots. If they are rougher to the touch, it is tartar. Here is the solution. Acidify the pool water by reducing the pH to 6 and then, allow the pH to rise alone between 7.2 and 7.6. If it has not gone back far enough beyond the 7th day, use a product. If this was not enough to remove the stains, you will have no choice but to empty the pool to descale it.
Warning! Before emptying the pool, it is imperative to check that there is no water under the bottom, otherwise, it could rise and irreversibly damage your installation.
If you do not want limestone to return to the walls and bottom of your pool, you must regularly analyze the pH of the water and adjust it if necessary, between 7.2 and 7.6. In addition, it is essential to treat the water regularly (at least 3 times a year) with a suitable anti-lime.
Discoloration spots. This is no doubt due to repetitive shock treatment. The chlorine damages the Gelcoat coating of your fiberglass pool. Unfortunately there is nothing to do, except to empty the pool and redo the coating.
The water line turns fluorescent yellow. It is the sign of the presence of benzotriazoles or debenzotriazines present in sunscreens. Here are the steps to follow. Raise the water level to above the yellow line then adjust the pH between 7.2 and 7.6. Once it is done, carry out shock chlorination and add a metal-capturing product in the correct dosage.
In addition, if you do not clean the water line quickly after the first signs appear, then the coloring could become permanent.
Brown marks at the waterline. Fats, in addition to remaining on the surface, trap dirt. To overcome it, the water line must be cleaned regularly with a suitable product whose role is to prevent stains from becoming permanent. If the waterline resists this cleaning, lower the water level below the coloring and clean with a descaler.
How To Remove Stains From A Concrete Or Plaster Pool
Heavy metal is a pool’s enemy. I’m talking about the invisible metals dissolved in your pool water from sources like rain run-off, pool equipment, saltwater pool systems, or even your concrete pool deck surface. Bits of metal like screws or hairpins can make a nasty rust stain.
It’s important to know what kinds of metals are creating the stains in your pool. Here’s a pool stain chart as a guide for metal stain identification in pools.
Metals are certainly not the only cause of stains in a plaster-surfaced swimming pool. Leaves, berries, bugs, suntan oil, or even your water-loving dog can all contribute to staining. For plaster pool stains is to always start with the brushing and shock before going in with a bunch of trial and error stain removers.
These types of stains can be cleaned with good old fashion elbow grease using a combination of a PoolStone and pool shock. Pouring a bit of pool shock directly onto a stain works similar to bleach and is ideal for plaster surfaces.
Sequestering agents, commonly called Stain & Scale chemicals, can help keep minerals and metals in solution, locked up tightly at the molecular level, so they won’t precipitate, mix with other particles, and then attach to your pool surfaces.
Other Types Of Stains: These can include pool stains from mineral scale-like calcium and metals like copper, iron, or manganese. Minerals can come out of solution in hard water, and metals can enter from fill water that is high in metals, or from copper pipes or a pool heater exchanger – when water balance is not correct.
Removing Stains from a Plaster Pool
Granular pool shock or EZ Stain Remover for organic stains Sequestering agents or A+ Stain Remover for metal stains Stain Eraser or PoolStone for mineral stains Enzymes for oily, dirty stains Acid Washing for all plaster, tile and coping stains Keep pool water balanced and brush often
Once again, having the correct water balance is important. Poor water balance can become corrosive or scaling, and both conditions can cause plaster pool stains by making it easy for minerals and metals to come out of solution.
The manual pool vacuum is an essential cleaning accessory and sufficient for cleaning small and medium-sized pools.
Given its low cost and ease of use, it is also a significant part of routine maintenance, especially in the event of a failure of your automatic pool cleaner, if you have one.
Why use a manual pool vacuum?
In general, a pool vacuum cleaner, whether manual or automatic, is an essential tool for removing dirt and debris that settles in the corners and the bottom of the pool.
Where the brush takes off the dirt, the manual vacuum cleaner will also suck them up through the filtration system or directly to waste. It protects against the deterioration of swimming conditions, water clarity, and helps keep a swimming pool clean, healthy, and pleasant.
The advantages of vacuuming a pool manually
Brushing the walls and floor of the pool prevents the formation of algae. Brushing also targets areas in the pool where dirt tends to settle.
When should you manually vacuum the pool?
During the season, when too much dirt from the use of the pool or deposits have formed in the pool because of wind and bad weather. This involves removing the dirt and deposits from the pool to help the filtration system.
After a period when regular maintenance of the pool and water treatment could not be carried out. For example, after a return to service of the filtration system at the end of winter, or after returning from vacation, or because the weather has forced you to do so (green water with algae blooms, large volumes of debris to be removed from the water).
Note that if the debris to be removed is a lot (leaves for example), it is preferable to first use the net beforehand so as not to unnecessarily clog the baskets of the skimmers and the prefilter of the filtration pump.
How to connect a manual pool vacuum?
Connect the head of the brush with the telescopic sleeve and put the connection hose in the pool. It will be necessary to get the air out of the hose, starting by connecting it to the head of the brush. If air is sucked in, the pump won’t prime.
Immerse the hose and the brush in the pool water, holding the brush handle and the other end of the hose. Remove the air in the connection pipe by placing it in front of an outlet water jet or by immersing it vertically in the pool so that the air escapes from the pipe.
Now bring the pipe filled with water to the inlet connection point, you can put your hand on the top of the pipe so that the water does not escape if that part of the pipe is out of the water.
If the pool is fitted with a brush socket, then fit the other end of the hose into the brush socket.
If the manual vacuum cleaner must be connected to the skimmer, then fit the other end of the hose onto the skimmer. In this case, and depending on the model, it could be connected either directly to the pipe under the skimmer basket or if you have a disc that fits on top of the skimmer basket called a skim vac. The suction fitting will be on the top of the disc.
Should the pool pump be on or off when fitting the vacuum brush?
If the pump is stopped and you are alone, the connection hose can disconnect itself from the brush or the skimmer and partially re-fill with air.
In this case, it may be better to have two people (one holding the hose, and one which starts the pump) or, if you are alone, to correctly position the multi-way valve and the T and D valves. Turn on the pool pump before connecting the brush.
The multi-way valve must be in the filter position if there is not much dirt to vacuum. If the bottom of the pool is very dirty, it may be preferable to put the multi-way valve on the backwash (drain) position so as not to clog the filter.
If the brush is connected to the skimmer, open the valve of the corresponding skimmer and close the bottom drain valve. This will give more suction power to the brush.
How to use a manual pool vacuum?
Not many people like to vacuum a pool. Therefore we vacuum to fast which is a mistake.
Do not hurry and be gentle when handling the brush. Gently vacuum all areas to be cleaned. By going too fast, dust and deposits will move up and resuspend in the water. The water will become cloudy and you will not see the bottom of the pool nor where you are vacuuming. Then you will have to wait for the dirt to settle down again.
The head of the vacuum cleaner must be effective on all surfaces and please respect the pool coating: walls, bottom, corners of the pool. If the coating is a liner, use a brush head that does not pierce the coating at the corners and edges. If the coating is a shell or concrete, a brush head with rollers is recommended so as not to scratch the coating.
Here again, the fact of going slowly makes it possible to avoid scratching, piercing or making impact points when the head of the vacuum cleaner bangs on the covering.
Once the vacuuming is finished, it is, of course, necessary to dismantle the brush and the hose.
Switching the pump off necessary to be able to empty the basket of the pump pre-filter and return the multi-way valve to the “Filter” position if it was on “Drain”.
Empty and clean the skimmer and pump pre-filter baskets. Return the T-valves to their original position and, if necessary, restart the pool pump.
As the name suggests, a manual pool vacuum involves cleaning work that is done manually. We must remember to not vacuum to fast due to the risk of sucking air and putting most of the dirt back into the water.
It is possible to take turns vacuuming, doing it as a team, or make it in the form of a game.
That said, there is nothing more effective than vacuuming the dirt from a pool than with a manual vacuum cleaner. You can do without a robot but you can never do without a manual vacuum brush. And even if its easier to call a company for the cleaning and maintenance of your pool, you should always have one on hand.
If you are the new owner of an above-ground pool or have just taken over the cleaning duties, sooner or later you will need to operate the vacuum cleaner.
The manual suction system consists of a sweeper’s head with brushes and rollers, and a roll of ribbed plastic pool hose, and a long pole made of either metal or fiberglass.
While vacuuming a pool can be tedious, it’s a breeze once the technique is mastered. So, if you’re tempted to neglect your maintenance schedule, remember that debris at the bottom of a pool can cause algae growth, and swimming in green, slimy water is not fun at all.
Firstly remove leaves, insects, and other debris from the surface of the pool using a deep or regular net scoop. Check the skimmer basket and the pump basket for debris and clean them if necessary.
Turn on the pool pump and make sure that water flows easily through the filter.
Attach the swivel end of the pool hose to the suction head. Attach the head to the extension and lower the assembly into the pool, extending the adjustable pole until the suction head reaches the bottom of the pool. Lock the adjustable pole and press it against the edge of the pool.
Hold the free end of the suction hose in front of the water return jet to completely fill the water hose with water. Keep one hand on the pole to prevent the vacuum head from floating to the surface when air is pushed out of the vacuum head.
Continue to prime the hose until it is full of water and no more bubbles escape from the vacuum head.
Keep the end of the hose submerged while removing it from the return water jet then attach it to the inlet fitting of the skimmer. Some vacuums require plugging the end of the hose directly into the suction port.
If you need to remove the end of the water hose to insert it into the suction hole, do so as quickly as possible to avoid leaving too much air in the hose.
Stand in a position so you can see the bottom of the pool clearly. Slowly move the vacuum head over the bottom of the pool, slightly overlapping the previous path with each new vacuum head pass.
Keep the vacuum head underwater at all times, otherwise, the vacuum cleaner will lose its effectiveness due to air being drawn into the system. Continue to vacuum until the bottom is completely clean.
A Word Of Advice
Brush the edges of the pool the night before vacuuming to remove debris, then vacuum the pool in the morning before anyone uses it. Adjust your water returns jets so that the body of water moves continuously in a circular pattern.
This allows the debris to be concentrated in the center of the bottom of the pool, where it is easier to vacuum. When you have finished vacuuming use the pressure gauge on the filter to determine if a “back-wash” is necessary.